Lent is over. It was a good run of fish fries and pancake breakfasts. We now return to our regular feature of restaurants…
Chef Demetrios Atheneos’ latest foray into food here in Cleveland focuses on quick-serve comfort food. He owns a number of popular sit-down restaurants, like Forage Public House and The Oak Barrel, but during COVID he decided to open a quick-serve comfort food concept. His uncle originally had a restaurant called Chicken Ranch in the ’80s in Brooklyn, New York and it was his inspiration. His family works here – specifically his brother Niko and Demetrios’ sister and daughter. His brother rang me out on my last visit and Niko’s young child was hanging out at a table, trying to get his dad to give him something, which made me chuckle. Luckily Chicken Ranch is close to me on the east side, on Cedar Road in University Heights. Located in the former Lox, Stock and Brisket spot, this is a small place set up mainly for take-out, but it has a few tables that you can bring your food to and eat in if you want.
Chicken Ranch is “the farm to table food in a smaller, to-go kind of setting.” Chicken Ranch focuses on quality ingredients and freshly made products — everything from their signature chicken sandwiches to ribs, fish, even homemade cannoli. The menu has lots of dietary indicators, from vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free to keto-friendly. The focus on comfort food really makes it stand out, and the chicken here is next level! It is brined in a spicy buttermilk brine, battered and fried, resulting in a crispy, flaky outside shell.
The chicken tenders are almost the size of entire breasts – not thin tenderloin strips. During my first visit I ordered the tenders (3 for $13) and was not disappointed. They were so big I couldn’t eat them in one sitting. You can order them as regular batter dipped or grilled. They have 15 different homemade sauces to choose from, ranging in spiciness level from the House BBQ and Comeback Sauce (which is keto-friendly) to Black Garlic Toum, Kim Chi Hot Sauce, Dragon Fire Honey Butter, Cleveland Hot Sauce and Nashville Hot Oil. The spiciness level is indicated on the menu. I’m partial to the honey mustard. The tenders came served with a mini jalapeno corn bread, which was super tasty. I also ordered the crinkle fries and beet salad, which was made with golden beets, jalapeno and goat cheese. It is unfortunately no longer on the menu. Maybe it’s a seasonal side. It was a nice, refreshing side to balance out the fried tenders and fries. The fries were nicely cooked, with a crisp exterior and creamy interior, and dusted with a nice seasoning.
On my next visit I went with the Crispy Chicken Sandwich (they have several spicier choices as well, including the Nashville Hot Chicken they are known for). The herb buttermilk mayo was a great addition, and the slaw was fresh and crispy. They were a nice balance to the huge brined chicken breast. I obviously couldn’t finish it either. I had wanted to order the white cheddar mac n cheese, but somehow was confused when I opened the container and found no noodles. Turns out I was given the mashed sweet potatoes. I have no idea if I ordered the wrong thing or the wrong button was pushed. Mistakes happen (like my friend who ordered a patty melt instead of the tuna melt she had been thinking about all week – it happens). I wasn’t about to drive back and exchange it, so I ate it. It was sweet and tasty, but when you have your heart set on comforting mac n cheese it was kind of disappointing. Check your order before you drive away (not bad advice wherever you are, but easy to not think about in the moment). The serving sizes are generous and easily made two meals.
Chicken Ranch is also known for its homemade cannoli. They are next level. I’m fairly certain the cannoli I got on my first visit was a chocolate chip cannoli, but they have a banana cream cannoli on the menu now. Who doesn’t love banana cream??? It’s one of my favorite things in life. I really enjoyed the cannoli. The shell was crisp and shattered nicely, the filling was delicious, and I am fairly certain the whipped cream was real whipped cream and not the fake stuff.
I’m going to try the ribs next time, but they also have Wagyu sliders that sound good. Also, be sure to check the Specials board.
Contact info:
Chicken Ranch
13892 Cedar Road
University Heights, OH 44118
(216) 938-7645</p